How to appreciate a jewel


Diamond Cut: Shoppers Buying Guide

The cut of a diamond is the physicalangle, and pavilion angle. The initial cut
measurement and relative proportion of agrade research focused on round brilliant
polished diamond and is the most importantdiamond shapes but the grading laboratories
characteristic in producing a diamond'sare slowly introducing cut grades for the
beauty. A single number does not define cut.fancy shapes like the princess, emerald,
Instead, it is a myriad of measurements,oval, radiant, cushion and others. Each
relative percentages, angles, finish, anddiamond shape has its own set of cut
performance  of  light  within  the  diamond.parameters that produce the optimal light
performance and beauty for that particular
The brilliance and sparkle of a diamond isdiamond  shape.
the result of the reflection and refraction
of light within a diamond and is theIf the cut of the diamond is the key to its
cumulative effect of the many facets on thebeauty, why would anyone purchase a diamond
surface of the three-dimensional diamondwithout great cut? Probably the main reason
shape. What makes judging cut difficult isis lack of knowledge by the consumer. Until
that beauty is in the eye of the beholder.recent years, it has been difficult for the
Different people perceive the beauty of aconsumer to assess the cut of the diamond
diamond differently in terms of what theybecause jewelers focused on color, clarity
perceive  as  beautiful.and carat weight. The jeweler used the
bright lights in the showroom to mask the
In recent years, major diamond gradinglight performance of the diamond. As the
laboratories like the Gemological Institutediamond shopper becomes more aware of what
of America (GIA) and the American Gem Societyconstitutes cut and has access to the GIA or
(AGS) have established cut grades to help theAGS cut grades on the diamond grading
consumer make better decisions for purchasingreports, they will be able to filter out the
diamonds based on cut characteristics.average and poor cut diamonds in their
However, the cut grading systems arepurchase  decisions.
different from each other and constantly
changing. As a result, there is no singleSometimes budget is a factor in purchasing
official cut grade but the current systemssomething less than the best cut. However,
are a giant leap ahead of the past with nocut is typically a real bargain since there
cut  grades.is little visual difference between the top
echelons of diamond cut and the price
The quality of the cut is most visible indifference between average and exceptional
terms of how light performs in a diamond tocut is often minimal. Perhaps the real cost
produce  Brightness, Fire, and Scintillation.of getting better cut in a diamond, is the
time and effort to learn about cut and to
Brightness is the visual effect of all thefind a retailer who can provide diamonds with
internal and external reflections of whiteexceptional  cut  at  reasonable  prices.
light. This brightness (also known as
brilliance) results primarily from the anglesOnce a diamond shopper has determined what
of the facets and the relative size of theshape of diamond they want to purchase, they
top  facet  called  the  table.need to research what cut parameters
contribute to desirable appearance. Some
Fire is the visual effect of rainbow coloreddiamond shoppers fall into a trap of narrowly
flashes of light caused by the separation ofdefining their acceptable range for every
white light into various colors when thediamond measurement, not realizing that the
diamond  acts  as  a  prism.beauty of the diamond results from the
interrelationships of all the facets. Simply
Scintillation is the visual effect of sparklepicking the middle of the range for each
and patterns of light and darkness. Sparkleparameter can lead to a mediocre result. The
is the points of light that flash as thecut grades are an attempt to rate how a
diamond, the light source or the observercombination of factors work together in the
moves. The arrangement and contrast betweendiamond.
the bright and dark areas is important to
what the eye perceives as beautiful. AnRegardless of the cut grade systems today or
all-bright diamond or an all-dark diamond isin the future, only the diamond shopper can
less attractive than a diamond with adetermine what is most appealing to their
balanced, symmetrical and contrasting patterneye. Cut is critical to the beauty of the
of  reflection.diamond so making the best diamond purchase
decision means understanding the importance
Some of the more important diamondof cut and finding that special diamond that
measurements influencing the cut grade areis beautiful to behold.
depth percentage, table percentage, crown



1 A B C D 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95 96 97 98 99 100 101 102 103 104 105 106 107 108 109 110 111