How Can You Tell a Fake From a Real Diamond?

The simplest, most honest answer to thefast enough to clear the stone before you can
question of how to tell a real diamond from alook at it. But that is a mere hint, no more, and is
fake is "get a professional to test the diamond."far from fail proof. Composition stones, with a
That may seem brutal, or you may have heardbase of one material and a table of diamond, will
that there are ways that clever people with"pass" the test while proving comparatively
jewelers' loupes can just take a peek and knowvalueless in terms of true worth.
which stones are real and which are fake, but theAgain, the very best way to tell a fake from a
truth is that it is becoming harder and harder toreal diamond is to allow a professional to provide
determine a "real" diamond even for traineda serious appraisal. That means you must choose
professionals, and it is dangerously difficult foryour jewelers carefully, and then ask for
amateurs.documentation of each gem (each is individual and
That said there are some rules of thumb. If youdocumentation can go a long way to establish the
are purchasing a diamond in a setting, check thenature of your own stone). A professional
metal stamp within the band: 10k, 14k, 18k, Pl, andjeweler, working with reputable sources, will be
similar markings indicating precious metal increasereliable, helpful, and able to ensure you an
the odds of the stone mounted in the settingunquestionable grade of appraisal.
being real.With no insult intended towards chain jewelers,
If you have a jeweler's loupe or a highthink very carefully before going to one for an
magnification hand magnifying glass, look at theappraisal. These businesses demonstrate both the
edges and girdle-band of the cut stone. Soft,strengths and the weaknesses of mass produced
rolled edges indicate a fake. So does a clear,manufacture and broad distribution. They are
waxy-smooth girdle where the facets meet andoften run very well, by honest men and women
change direction around the "belly" of the stone.with equally honest support staff -- but few in
Likewise use the loupe to look into the stone forthese stores are likely to have the in depth
flaws: minor flecks, inclusions, tiny fractures.training associated with higher grades of jewelry
These are the product of natural creation, andstore, or with highly qualified assessment
are hard to mimic. Unfortunately natural diamondsbusinesses.
are also most valued when least flawed, and theTo find these check the yellow pages or online
minor flaws that are commonly allowed throughfor advertisements offering appraisal services,
are not easily spotted by the amateur.and then take the time to learn the background,
Weight is a common indicator. Many materialslicensing, and experience of the assessor. A
used for fakes are heavier or lighter than reallicensed jeweler, a good journeyman in a
diamond: in particular cubic zirconium, the mosttraditional trade program, a former stone dealer --
common fake diamond, is a bit heavier. If youthese are good indicators of skill.
have a precision scale and samples of realIf you are bringing in a stone, ask that it be
diamonds you can perform a comparison.tested in your presence (to avoid swapping by
Do not attempt scratching glass with yourdishonest jewelers). If you are refused, turn and
diamond. Don't attempt acid tests that might bewalk right back out. If buying a stone, ask for full
used on metals. Don't try smashing a diamond -- itdocumentation. And whatever you do, know that
will crush as well as any other crystallinethe challenge of identifying real diamond has
substance and better than many. You can trybecome difficult enough to make even pros think
fogging the stone: a pure diamond shifts the heattwice and look three times.